Glycolic Acid as a Skincare Active

Glycolic Acid as a Skincare Active

Glycolic Acid is one of the most renowned ingredients used in skincare to date. It is organic in its makeup and comes from various sources such as: sugarcane, sugar beets, pineapple, cantaloupe and unripe grapes. Its multiple makeups allows for it to be extremely tolerable on most skins.

 

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Glycolic Acid works its way through the skin and dissolves the keratin bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This allows for a very simple, nonabrasive form of exfoliation as the cells gently slough off. Whilst working on the keratinocytes, messages are sent into the dermis where fibroblasts are then stimulated, new cells are produced at the basal layer to help replace those that are being lost whilst Collagen and Elastin are stimulated in the dermis.

 

Understanding the Skin Renewal Cycle to better formulate & use Skincare Actives effectively

As we age, the skin loses its ability to turn over new cells regularly. This causes a thickening of the epidermis, a thinning of the dermis and dermis-epidermis junction.

When this happens, there is less nutrient exchange and the biofringence between the layers becomes compromised and as time goes on and the less stimulation occurs to the skin, the worse this problem gets.

 

It is said that in European skins, from the ages of 25-30 the skin cell cycle declines from 28 days to 35-40. Meaning the skin is only producing new layers every 2 months. By the ages of 50+ this is tripled meaning the skin is only turning over 2-3 times per year.

 

By using Glycolic Acid within one’s daily regimen, the skin is stimulated to slough off and replenish what is being removed, thereby allowing for a thicker dermis and more active dermis-epidermal junction.

 

Professional Peel Treatments are a little more complex than homecare. They are formulated to stimulate the skin and create a surge of reactions. The Dermaceutic Milk Peel contains 50% Glycolic Acid solution. Studies show that at this concentration the fibroblast activity is enhanced, therefore this peel treatment will yield more Collagen and Elastin making it effective for targeting the signs of aging. The Mask Peel, however, is at a 30% concentration, making it more of a resurfacing treatment to encourage cell turn over.

 

As with all acids it is vital that the pH of the formulation enables an optimal environment for the acid to work. Generally Glycolic Acid should be at a pH of 3.5 and below to ensure that it can work quickly. In homecare products, however, the pH will be higher to allow the acid to work continuously over a longer period.

 

Glycolic Acid is stable and therefore can be incorporated into several formulations, but it is neutralised by water so ensure that when using it, the skin is dry, and that water is only added when the product needs to be neutralised.

 

Incorporate the use of Glycolic Acid into your daily regime for best results.

 

Glycolic Acid can be found in the following Dermaceutic homecare products:

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